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UVLife Online
Montpelier, Vt: A Small City, A Big Weekend Getaway
Text by John Walters
Photography by Annie Tiberio Cameron Photography
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Welcome to Montpelier, Vt.: the smallest state capital in the nation, and one of the most scenic. It is also the only state capital without a McDonald’s — although there is a Mickey D’s just a few miles down the road, if you’re really hankering for a Happy Meal.
It’s often called Montpeculiar, sometimes derisively, sometimes with pride. It is a singular place in many ways — a traditional New England town, a bedroom community for Burlington (about 45 minutes up I-89), a refuge for those who want a small-town pace with the amenities of a larger community. There’s a thriving arts scene, and a real belief in shopping locally. And then there’s the state government, which brings thousands of outsiders to town every day. Montpelier’s population is just over 8,000, but it swells to 20,000 on weekdays.
 It’s a darn pretty place. If you approach downtown from I-89’s Exit 8, you’re soon confronted by the best known view in Montpelier: the golden dome of the state house, beautifully framed by a wooded hillside. Take one of the bridges over the Winooski River, and you’re in a New England downtown right out of central casting. The city center is funneled into a narrow stretch along the river. It’s almost absurdly walkable; it takes about 10 minutes to stroll from one end of downtown to the other. But that small area contains a surprising array of things to do. When you add the natural beauty of the surrounding countryside, you have a great weekend getaway that’s only an hour from the Upper Valley.
A Taste of History
You can get a good sense of Vermont’s history by visiting two places in the same block.
The first is the Vermont State House, a diligently maintained 1859 structure with many original details and furnishings inside. It’s remarkably accessible; even in this age of heightened security, there are no metal detectors. Portraits of former governors and prominent Vermonters line the hallways. Most are standard poses, but Howard Dean is depicted in a flannel shirt paddling a canoe, looking for all the world like an L. L. Bean catalog model.
The Senate and House chambers are well worth seeing. The Senate chamber is a small but grand room; most of its furnishings are original. The House chamber is much larger; the Representatives sit in semicircular rows under a dramatic chandelier.
Two doors down from the state house is the Vermont Historical Society Museum. It provides a comprehensive tour through Vermont history in a compact, well-designed exhibit space. The gift shop offers a wide selection of Vermont-related books.
 After all that history, how about a little fresh air? One of Montpelier’s jewels is Hubbard Park, the hillside that frames the state house. The 185-acre park includes plenty of walking trails, picnic areas and a 54-foot observation tower that overlooks the city. If you’d like a workout, there’s a trail that starts behind the state house and climbs the hill to the tower. The less strenuous option is to drive up the hill, park your car and stroll around to your heart’s content.
If shopping is on your agenda, you’ll find a wide variety of retailers in the compact city center. Downtown’s only traffic light is at the corner of State and Main; from there, virtually all the stores and restaurants are less than a block away on State, Main and Langdon Streets.
A Good Place for Food
There are a lot of good things to eat in Montpelier. The countryside is full of small farmers and specialty food producers, who benefit from a pool of consumers with an avid interest in local and organic foods. You might consider bringing a cooler to carry some local products home with you.
Saturday mornings from May through October, the Capital City Farmers’ Market offers a great variety of local farm products: produce, eggs, meats, artisan cheeses and prepared foods. If you don’t have a cooler, you could assemble a darn fine roadside brunch: artisan breads, local cheeses, fruits and veggies and fare from street food vendors.
Every day of the week, the Hunger Mountain Co-op is a beehive of activity. You’ll find lots of local foods; great selections of produce, cheese and baked goods; organic meat from local farms; beers from Vermont microbrews; and a small but thoughtful wine section with plenty of budget options.
 The dining scene has been enhanced by the presence of the New England Culinary Institute, one of the finest cooking schools in the nation. NECI’s two eateries have raised the bar for every restaurant in town. Many a young chef has studied at NECI and decided to settle in the area.
Then there are Creemees. That’s the local term for soft-serve ice cream, and it’s ubiquitous. Lots of convenience stores have a Creemee machine. The classic Creemee joint is Dairy Creme at 320 State Street. The absolute best are the maple Creemees (made with real maple syrup) at two local maple farms: Morse Farm is on County Road, three miles north of downtown, and Bragg Farm is on Route 14, about five miles northeast.
The Other Twin City
Just a few miles down the road is Barre, a city of a much different character. It’s literally a hardscrabble place, dominated by the granite industry. Barre’s gray granite is particularly durable, making it ideal for statues, memorials and monuments. There are three striking granite sculptures along Main Street: a monument to the city’s Italian-American craftsmen; a statue of the Scottish poet Robert Burns; and “Youth Triumphant,” a memorial to Barre soldiers and sailors that was later adopted as the city seal.
 Between these monuments is a downtown that’s coming back to life after a lengthy decline. Residents joke about the fact that, in what used to be a strictly working-class town, there are four different places that serve gourmet coffee!
To explore the city’s granite heritage, there are two great places to go. The first is the Rock of Ages Quarry and Visitors Center, about three miles south of downtown Barre. You can take a tour of the 600-foot deep quarry, see granite artisans at work inside the factory and even sandblast your own souvenir.
 A bit north of downtown, see some true works of art at Hope Cemetery. During its heyday, the industry brought many of Europe’s finest stone carvers to Barre. When it came time to craft a family monument, these artisans poured their hearts and souls into their work. Some are incredibly intricate; some intensely personal; some are even whimsical. It’s definitely worth a visit.
Montpelier may not have the flash and dash of a big-city destination like Boston or Montreal. But in many ways, it’s an ideal weekend getaway. You’ll be satisfied, but not overwhelmed, by the city’s shops, restaurants and attractions. The smallest capital city in the nation is surprisingly big — in things to do and places to go.
Freelance writer and author John Walters makes his home in Montpelier, Vt.
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